2020 Travels

Waikerie

We enjoyed several activities in Waikerie, located midway between Morgan and Renmark, including this early ferry across the Murray River to take morning photos of the ochre cliffs near the town.

Other spots we liked were the exhibitions at the Rainmoth Gallery after which Waikerere is named, and the hot chocolate at Havenhand Chocolates & Cafe (we also stocked up on behalf of the Easter Bunny – very impressed with the individual quandong and balsamic and salt choccies!)

The Wok on Water had been recommended to us by people in Morgan. Great Thai food aboard the Murray River Queen in the photo below, which also provides accommodation and a backpackers. Read our Tripadvisor review

Above is the very beautiful Crimson Lorikeet (in this case a yellow version – don’t ask) in the caravan park checking out any pickings and impressing his lady friend.

We found a perfect slogan for Ian (and all our other photographer mates) in Paul White’s impressive photo gallery….

Life is like a camera…

Focus on what is important,

Capture the good times,

Develop from the negatives,

And if things don’t work out – take another shot!

Kitsch but kinda good!

Morgan – our entry point to the fabulous Riverland…

Morgan was our first view of the mighty Murray River, just where it bends dramatically south. However we plan to follow the river east, using the fabulous free ferry trips to explore the Riverland region.

The measurements of the different Murray River floods show that 1956 was a very bad year around here!

Morgan is a small but delightful town with a yummy bakery (think hot cross buns just out of the oven), and 2 hotels within walking distance of the caravan park – very civilised. Most impressed with the Commercial’s annual camp oven team cook-off – would like to experience that!

The old wharf precinct is also being restored. Suffice to say we LOVED Morgan and our introduction to river cliff views and learning about the paddle steamer era of the 19th century when this town was the busiest inland port in Australia.

However although it is fun to be a tourist in this region, we want to understand the Murray-Darling Basin controversy. We only hear about these problems at election time but these 2 rivers span 4 states so nothing is simple! Time for some research… please let us know if you can recommend a good overview?

Elliston to Clare

Thanks to all of you who explained the South Australian sign “Stop creeping” to us – as in do not let your speed creep up over the limit!

For our 3 days in Elliston, we stayed at the caravan park opposite the jetty which has lovely grassed sites, and a camp kitchen with a huge fire and beaut jarrah slab tables to sit at every night – a great atmosphere where everyone feels welcome.

We met up with our good friends Jan and Jamie who are on a ‘big trip’ as well, and managed to eat our way through several dozen oysters, thanks to Master Schucker Jamie! We also cooked up some other favourites as well – while travelling, we find that we only buy a small amount of really good meat or fish and vegetables and cook them simply.

Several attempts to catch a fish were made. No success and no further discussion is being entered into apparently! The cliff-top scenic drive was spectacular with excellent sea vistas of the Southern Ocean and strategically placed statues. We especially enjoyed watching the surfers in Anxious Bay with a huge swell running.

So then it started raining, so clearly it was time to move further east! We caught the vehicle ferry from Lucky Bay to Walleroo rather than travel up through Port Augusta, as this suited our plans to revisit the lovely Clare Valley.

Unfortunately it rained for the 3 days we were in Clare! We stayed at the Discovery caravan park and observed many unhappy campers – that delicate perfume of drenched and smelly canvas…

It is such a well preserved and historic town at the gateway to the Clare Valley, with all the beautiful vineyards, artists, farmland and surrounding country. A highlight was eating great tapas at Mr Mick’s again – all those small tastes of yummy food combined with their local wines.

We know from experience it is important to be flexible with travel routes and arrangements…. when circumstances change, the weather is too hot or too cold, or costs blow out!

So it is with this trip. Our original plan was to get to SA and hug the coastline south and east around SA and Victoria and then north through NSW and up to Queensland.

We now plan to do this in reverse to take advantage of the warmer weather (i.e. we are already feeling quite cold!) Our new plan is to head east through the Riverland region to Mildura, then turn northeast. We have family and friends to see on the way through NSW and southern Queensland, then we will move north ASAP to the warmth.

Then when spring has sprung, we will explore the coast from Queensland south and west.

Nullarbor and into South Australia…

These days the Nullarbor road is in very good condition and includes several emergency airstrips for the RFDS.

However Ian recalls his first experience driving from east to west in 1966 when it was mostly dirt from Port Augusta to Balladonia.

“I was doing a favour for Wilf, one of my Army mates who was in hospital with appendicitis. He had a Vauxhall Velox (obviously pre-1966 model) and pleaded with me to drive it home to Perth… 3000km! I wasn’t keen at all as it would eat into my 2 weeks of pre-embarkation leave before leaving for Viet Nam. At least 5 days! My condition was that I couldn’t do it alone … Did he know anyone else willing to join me? Ian McKeown put his hand up, so I had to do it.

We set off from Puckapunyal in Victoria and managed to get through to the difficult Adelaide hills where we were held up with traffic. Onwards into the night – stopped at a pub and bought a cold slab of Southwark beer. Then headed up through Port Augusta and on to the westward road – after one can (disgusting!) the rest went out the window.

Well down the track we swapped drivers. After a bit of shut-eye on the back seat, I was awakened by a horrendous thumping noise – just in time to see the car straddling the debris left by the grader on the edge of the road! Ian had gone to sleep and luckily the noise woke us both! Just out of Nundroo…

The damage was considerable. The flywheel housing had been belted up against the flywheel which had proceeded to cut a nice slice out of the housing. My immediate concern was the sump – luckily it had not been punctured though it was well and truly corrugated.

A minor problem were the gear linkages – now non-existent and we were stuck in top gear! I managed to stuff some rags in the flywheel housing but had to wear the rest of the damage… Slow starts in top gear were the go!

So we headed west hoping nothing else would stop us. Ivy Tanks a was compulsory fuel stop and it was about 20 feet above the surrounding plain, We had to do a couple of circuits of it before we had enough speed to climb the hill….

It got worse. We intended to drive non-stop, so we just kept heading west. I was driving along one of the side tracks that seemed reasonable and we were about 100 km short of Balladonia. I was barely able to keep my eyes open and Ian was asleep too. So we stopped and put our heads down. Woke up at daybreak and stepped out to have a pee … Walked up to the road and had a look – it was bluddy bitumen as Far East as I could see!

My Dad came out to meet us as we approached Perth and we took the Vauxhal to Wilf’s home. I was sorry it was in the condition it was, but glad that ordeal was over. It had taken us 48 driving hours and I was bluddy exhausted”.

So now we are back in SA. During our last visit here in October 2012, we focused on travelling extensively in the Flinders Ranges and eating the best seafood all around the Eyre Peninsula. This time – who knows?!

After going through quarantine in Ceduna and stocking up on fruit and veges, we picked up 6 dozen freshly caught oysters for $42 at Smoky Bay, and headed south to Elliston to meet up with friends Jan and Jamie for a few days R and R. This will involve fishing, camp fires, eating oysters, quaffing a few ales and sipping a few SA wines. Yes, it’s tough but someone has to do it!

BTW, the first sign we saw in SA was this one….

Besides being a scary sign, any ideas what this means?!

The Nullarbor….

Our last few days have been spent crossing the Nullarbor, a huge limestone plain that links WA with the eastern states.

Firstly though, please enjoy these early morning photos of Coolgardie’s beautiful architecture dating back to the 1880s – it is a quiet town these days, but it is easy to imagine the crowds and the vibe back then!

There was a minor delay when we left due to a long queue at the only garage in town (computer systems down so no fuel), so we headed for Widgiemooltha 80 kms down the track.

Surprise! The BP truck was late this week, so no fuel there either. Oops. We do have an auxiliary fuel tank, but hadn’t counted on missing two fuel stops completely! After a few rapid calculations we figured we could just make it to Norseman by driving very slowly – let’s just say it was nice to see that big green BP sign.

Ah then, now for the the mighty Nullarbor! The name is of Latin origin (Null = Nil, Arbor = tree) but we like the Aboriginal name as well (Gondiri = ‘bare like a bone’).

Some people just hate this drive across the Eyre Highway and drive it as quickly as possible; others are mesmerised by the huge landscape, the cliffs bordering the Southern Ocean, caves and rockholes and the beautiful sky-scapes. Perhaps it depends on how much time is available – No doubt about it, it’s a long trip along a very straight road!

We turned into the Nullarbor Roadhouse to see a sport aircraft in the queue for fuel! The pilot had flown for 7 hours today from Perth. Hmmm, 7 hours vs 3 days! Several planes a week land on the gravel strip at the back of the roadhouse which the owners maintain for the Royal Flying Doctor Service. It was a case of deja vu for Ian as he ferried a Cessna 150 from Sydney to Perth in December 1968, and refuelled at Nullarbor as well!

These days the road is in good shape, and there is a never-ending procession of road trains and caravans travelling both ways. But people have very different memories of this particular stretch of the GAFA, with many injuries and deaths and little problems like cars disappearing into huge potholes.

In our next post, Ian will recall his first experience in 1966, so let us know your best (or worst!) experiences of the Nullabor!

Heading East – Day 1

Day 1 of our long awaited “Big Trip East” from our home in Western Australia went well – although maybe departing on April Fools Day could have been better planned!

Driving through the Wheatbelt region is always nostalgic for us, as it is an area we both know and love. There is a straight section of road where 3 essential ‘arteries’ run in parallel:

The main railway east which links the Indian and Pacific oceans
The Eastern Highway from Perth to Norseman, which then links with Highway 1 to take you all around Australia
And in the middle is the Goldfields pipeline – now that is an intriguing and sad tale to follow, especially if you are interested in engineering feats. CY O’Connor‘s vision of pumping water from Perth to the dry Goldfields interior succeeded in 1903, but he sadly committed suicide 9 months earlier due to immense personal pressure from the naysayers of the day.

We crossed the markers for the two rabbit-proof fences built in 1901 and 1905. From all accounts they were not terribly successful in stemming the bunny tide. Releasing the myxoma virus in the 1950s was much more successful – for the humans, not the rabbits.

However “The Rabbit Proof Fence” for us will always refer to the movie of the same name where 3 Aboriginal girls ran away from the Moore River Native Settlement, north of Perth, in 1931. They walked for nine weeks along the 2,400 km fence to return to their community at Jigalong. An amazing story of a bad, bad time.

3 crosses and a memorial near Boorabin reminded us of the awful events of 2007 when 3 trucks were incinerated. Poor communication between different emergency services led to incorrect information being provided to the truckies about which roads were open or closed.

Many court cases were held mainly to apportion blame in order for compensation to be awarded, but there were certainly no winners in that whole process – other than it being a dreadful reminder of the constant bushfire danger in Australia.

The distinctive trees along this route are outstanding. The Wandoo woodlands between Perth and Northam fade out to ‘parachute’ eucalypts then the very handsome ‘Salmon’ gums – as we call them because of their colour – which actually include a green and a cream… Whatever, they are very beautiful, especially when they have had a light shower of rain and the deep green leaves and trunks glisten.

As a kid Ian occasionally went with his dad when he drove to Merredin to carry out his Optometrist duties there. This is where he saw them first, so he has a deep seated memory of watching them while lying on the back seat of the car before nodding off … Priceless memories. Many years later as a conscript in Viet Nam, he came over a hill and looked down on a group of planted salmon gums which really sent a pang of WA homesickness over him.

Once we got into the Goldfields region, we settled into the Coolgardie caravan park by 4.30 pm, and wandered up to the Denver City Hotel, the only local hotel still operating out of 23 in gold rush days. This is our favourite occupation in any small town we visit. We get to stretch our legs, have a yarn with people in their front yards, chat with locals in the bar – plus have a cold beer and a wine before going home to our van to cook dinner!

Would love to hear what your favourite tree is in your neck of the woods?

2 fun day trips from Christchurch

In our recent post about Christchurch, we promised to share 2 great day trips – both involve a jaunt in the country. Although we drove to both towns, please be assured that there are regular tours and public transport options available.

JAUNT No 1 to Hanmer Springs takes about 2 hours and winds through all the usual beautiful Kiwi scenery and farmland… Even the cattle co-operated in our photo shoot!

Cattle in paddock

“All looking this way, please.”

This little town 130 kms northwest of Christchurch has been famous for its thermal waters for many years. I can thoroughly recommend the Thermal Pools and Spa as a great spot to relax. I gravitated straight to the rock pools and experienced all the varying degrees of luxurious heat. I was fascinated to learn that World War 1 veterans suffering from mental and nervous disorders were sent here for treatment and often made a full recovery – proof perhaps of the soothing effects of water and warmth?

We visited in November, so no skiing for us. However other local activities include jet boating, mountain biking, horse riding and of course the ubiquitous Kiwi bungy jumping. (No, we didn’t do that – my sister was a surgical nurse and I’ve heard quite enough about potential detached retinas to put me off the idea!)

Check out this lovely ‘townscape’ from the Hanmer Accommodation website.

Locals that we spoke with said that simply walking around the town and nearby forest trails is their particular joy. All in all, in spite of being such a popular tourist destination, Hanmer Springs has a happy and laid-back vibe with plenty of cafes and bars to enjoy lunch and/or a glass of wine.

JAUNT No. 2 is to Akaroa, about 1.5 hours south of Christchurch, with picture perfect historic cottages and all French street names. Why?! Read about the French legacy.

It is quite busy when cruise ships are at anchor in the bay, as their normal spot at Lyttleton Harbour was badly damaged during the Christchurch earthquakes. However there is a great choice of places to enjoy lunch – in fact, I can taste that seafood chowder and the chilled Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc right now!

Wandering the streets to walk off lunch was simply a photographer’s dream.

We were sad that we just missed the French Fest, held annually to celebrate the anniversary of the settlement of Akaroa. Definitely must try to get back one October…

Do let us know your favourite small towns in New Zealand!

America’s most beautiful place…?

We did a little research for our trip from Western Australia to the USA in 2008. We found that Sedona in Arizona had been voted the most beautiful place in the USA. So we decided to visit while we were there.

Flying into Phoenix, we were transported by airport bus to the multi-story hire car terminal. Each floor housed a different Hire Car firm. Hertz was very helpful indeed, making suggestions about a change of vehicle choice when we advised where we were going. It cost no more than the car we originally intended to hire, but was certainly more suited to operate at the high altitudes where we wanted to go. A Pontiac GC GT! The car was fitted with a very handy GPS – we needed it! The car was very comfortable and possibly built in Australia!

We found the 8 lane highway out of Phoenix interesting to say the least… The speed limit was 75mph (120km/hour) and we several times were sandwiched between semi-trailers doing considerably more than the speed limit! As I say – interesting…

The local Visitor centre in the airport terminal in Phoenix was also helpful and suggested we take a little detour through the scenic towns of Prescott and Jerome on the way. Very good advice and really interesting places.
Jerome is around 6000feet above mean sea level and has a ‘Mile High Restaurant’. The town is built on the side of a mountain and seems to hang precariously above the valley 3000feet below… A former gold mining town it is now a real tourist oriented town. Some great souvenirs to be had here. Lots of Native American ornaments, T-shirts and gear.

We stayed at the very scenic Sky Ranch Lodge situated on a ridge above the town of Sedona with magnificent views across to the spectacular rock formations. The town airport is also situated on the ridge and was fairly busy while we were there. We were not disappointed. Sedona is indeed a very spectacular place. Sedona is a tourist mecca of sorts so there were on offer everything you needed, as well as scenery.

It is hard to imagine a town more scenically located.
What do you think?

Christchurch – still a lovely city…

You may have heard of Christchurch, a small city in the South Island of New Zealand which has been badly affected by earthquakes starting back in September 2010. We have visited this lovely place many times as my two brothers and their families live there, so we were well aware of the impact on local people.

However our visit in late November 2013 was our first chance to personally witness the devastation that had happened back in the major quake on 22 February 2011, and the impact that the eleven thousand smaller earthquakes since then have on every day life.

185 Empty White Chairs is an installation created by artist Peter Majendieto as a memorial to the 185 people who died that day. What a clever concept to convey such a sad message. I wept as we walked among the chairs, all painted white by volunteers. Everyday chairs, posh chairs, outdoor chairs, office chairs and stools were all there, but it was the wheelchair and the baby capsule that brought me undone. Sadly, many more people were badly injured that day as well, and are still struggling to regain their mental and physical health.

Even now, the city centre resembles those tragic photos that you see of European cities at the end of World War 2 hostilities in 1945. Although the rubble has been cleared away, there are many buildings that are uninhabitable and await demolition… Check out this restaurant, frozen in time from 3 years ago with broken crockery, glasses and shelving still in situ.

Out in suburbia, about 10 000 homes were destroyed or irreparably damaged. My family was “lucky” in that their homes were still habitable although all have needed extensive repairs. There are still many people waiting for repair work. Homes awaiting demolition perch precariously on hilltops, and the roads are protected from falling rocks with shipping containers filled with dirt and rubble.

Our family described the complete lack of control as confronting. I get that. The quakes are not going to end any time soon, so each time there is a tremor they stop and wonder – Will it happen again? Is this the next big one?

In spite of all this, the city and its people are getting on with their lives and that Kiwi ingenuity is certainly creating some vibrancy and fun. We loved the creative outdoor bar and cafes created out of pallets, and the ‘shops in containers’. Kind of pop-up shops with a difference, and many locals hope that they will remain on site even when the city centre is rebuilt.

If you’re going to New Zealand, do yourself and the locals a favour and spend some time exploring Christchurch. It is still a great place to visit!

Have you been to Christchurch recently? What were your impressions?

Look out for our next blog – Two memorable day trips from Christchurch…

The fabulous emu!

A highlight of our travels is learning more about Australian flora and fauna, and the emu is just one fascinating example. It features prominently on the Australian ‘Coat of Arms’, and was apparently chosen along with the kangaroo as a symbol of Australia moving forward – especially given that neither animal can move backwards easily!

Their chick-rearing practices are different from many other bird species, and have earned the females a reputation for ‘shabby female behaviour‘! The larger female bird takes the dominant role in selecting a partner and once the days start getting shorter in April, the pair mates each day or two. Mum lays an egg every 2nd or 3rd day in a large, low flat nest.

Then Dad becomes broody and loses interest in mating, even becoming aggressive towards Mum. So she and her fellow females wisely wander off into the bush and leave all the dads to do what they do best! The males are certainly dedicated to the task as they don’t move from the nest for the next 7-8 weeks until the chicks hatch. During this time Dad doesn’t eat or drink, just lives off his fat and any nearby dew on the grass. The only time he stands up is to turn the 10-20 eggs in the nest several times a day.

The chicks emerge mostly emerge in July and August, and Dad continues to raise the hatchlings to their maturity at 12-18 months.

Watching these tall flightless birds move in the wild with their feathers flouncing is a beautiful experience, and they regularly reach speeds up to 50 or more kms per hour.

In contrast, it is tragic to see so many end up as road kill, which we noted mostly in the Flinders Ranges in South Australia where they are so prolific.

Emus are also fond of swimming in fresh water or the sea – check them out cooling off at Monkey Mia recently.

We have heard some funny stories about their inquisitive nature – for example, poking their heads through your car window to say hello to your startled children!

Do you have a story to share?!